Quick Reference Guide for Beauty & Skincare Ingredients

It can be overwhelming when you see the list of ingredients in a beauty/skincare product. It's not easy to remember which ingredient is hydrating, for acne, antiaging, brightening, etc. Instead of having to memorize it all and wish that you had a photogenic memory, I thought it would be easier to create a cliff notes version to help outline the benefits (or lack there of) for each ingredient.

This page is a work in progress. I'm making this as my quick reference guide for ingredient list and I hope it serves the same purpose for you I will keep adding as I learn about each ingredient so bookmark this page because this list will keep growing.

Dream With Intent - Sonali Ankola - Skincare Quick Guide

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA)

AHAs are water-soluble (dissolves in water) and derived from sugar cane or other plant.

Exfoliative effect by increasing the shedding of surface level dead skin cells. They do this by gently cleaving the retained bonds between dead skin cells.

Reduces skin discoloration by encouraging the old, discolored skin cells to turn over.

Increasing collagen synthesis by fibroblasts (the collagen-producing cells in the skin), and by decreasing degradation of the existing dermal matrix.

Anti-aging effect by reducing the appearance of surface lines and wrinkles

FDA recommends AHA products with an overall AHA concentration of less than 10 percent. This helps prevent side effects from AHAs. Temporary side effects may include: burning, itching, blisters, dermatitis (eczema). To reduce your risk of irritation, do not use AHA products every other day. As your skin gets used to them, you can then start applying AHAs every day.

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Argan Oil

Rich in vitamin E, or tocopherol, a fat-soluble vitamin that serves as a potent antioxidant to reduce the damaging effects of free radicals.

May help with treating inflammatory skin conditions. It contains several antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds, which may be why it seems to treat skin tissue.

Oleic and linoleic acids that make up the majority of argan oil’s fat content are vital nutrients for maintaining healthy skin and hair.

May help to improve the elasticity of skin — which could be why so many people report success in using it for stretch marks.

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Beta-hydroxy acids (BHA)

Exfoliative effect by increasing the shedding of dead skin cells retained at the surface. They do this by gently breaking the bonds between dead skin cells.

BHA is lipid or oil-soluble (dissolves in oil), which makes BHA more effective on oily skin. It penetrates further into the skin compared to AHA by getting down into the pore, dissolving the oil and breaking apart the debris inside that usually leads to acne.

BHAs can help clear up blackheads, whiteheads, and have mild anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.

It can be used with darker skin to correct sun, age spots and hyperpigmentation issues.

Derived from willow bark (the same place we get aspirin).

Most common BHA is salicylic acid.

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Glycerin

A humectant that attracts and traps moisture so the skin appears soother and more hydrated. Maintains water balance.

It can help the skin to heal by decreasing itchiness and flakiness to treat eczema and psoriasis.

It protects the skin by increasing epidermal layer thickness by locking in moisture. Aids with barrier function by keeping out harmful environmental elements.

It Prevents wrinkles and fine lines. Helps to repair skin tissue and heal scars.

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Glycolic Acid

Type of colorless, odorless, water soluble alpha-hydroxy acid (or AHA) that's derived from sugar cane.

Chemical exfoliant that helps to shed dead skin cells by breaking the glue-like substance that holds dull and dead skin cells on the outer layer of skin.

Evens out skin tone, decreases hyperpigmentation by sloughing off pigmented skin which encourages cell turnover, reduces blackheads, minimizes fine lines and wrinkles.

May irritated people with sensitive skin especially when stronger concentrations of glycolic acid is used in skincare products.

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Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrates skin and makes it look healthier and supple.

Retain over 1,000 times its weight in water within the cells of skin, making it an excellent moisturizer.

Powerful humectant and brings moisture to the surface of the skin.

Softens fine lines and wrinkles.

Helps to heal wounds faster by regulating inflammation levels.

Lubricates joints between bones to alleviate uncomfortable pain from grinding.

Clear, gooey substance naturally created by the body to hold water, hydrate and plump skin.

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Hydroquinone

Skin-lightening agent helpful for treating different forms of hyperpigmentation and for evening out the skin tone.

Decreases the number of melanocytes. Melanocytes make melanin. Melanin is what gives skin it's skin tone.

It is approved by approved by the FDA but banned in U.K., Europe and Japan.

Potential allergen for sensitive skin and can cause irritation and redness.

Fast absorbing, comes in a range of strengths including prescription strength and results are visible in a few weeks.

It is available as cream, emulsion, gel, lotion and solution.

Prolonged usage of hydroquinone has been associated with ochronosis, a blue-black pigmentation with caviar-like papules on the skin.

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Kojic Acid

It is made from different types of fungi. Aso a byproduct of fermentation from food such as sake, soy sauce, and rice wine.

Inhibits an enzyme necessary in the production of melanin, helping to fade dark spots and discoloration.

Used in health and beauty products to lighten the skin and treat skin conditions, such as sun damage, scars, and age spots.

Commonly used in cosmetic products, such as creams, lotions, and serums.

Kojic acid can lead to contact dermatitis in some people, especially those with sensitive skin.

Skin can become more sensitive to sun and burn easily due to reduction in melanin production.

Benefits may include: anti-aging effects, treating melasma, decrease the appearance of scars, antifungal benefits & antibacterial effects.

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Sodium Hyaluronate

Retains moisture to keep your skin hydrated and flake-free.

Improves signs of aging by plumping and smoothing out skin texture created by wrinkles and fine lines.

Water soluble salt form of hyaluronic acid.

Similar to hyaluronic acid it retains over 1,000 times its own weight in water, but this form can penetrate deeper into the skin and is more stable. It allows it to last longer in moisturizers and serums.

It is a humectant that absorbs water from the air and underlying layers of your skin into the epidermis while reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).

Non-comedogenic (won't clog pores).

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Titanium Dioxide

Can be found in mineral derived sunscreen, lotions and cosmetic loose powder.

White color, opaqueness and works as a UV filtering ingredient in sunscreen that sits on top of the skin.

It scatters and forms a barrier to block UVA & UVB rays so they can't penetrate the skin.

Protects from the sun as soon as it’s applied.

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Tretinoin

Powerful prescription-strength topical cream, gel, or solution.

A synthetic version of vitamin A and stronger than retinol.

Treats acne & sun damaged skin; minimizes and reduces fine lines and wrinkles; evens out skin tone.

It stimulates skin cell production by causing it to divide faster and die faster, so newer, healthier cells can take their place.

It can cause skin irritation and peeling, especially when you first start using it.

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Disclaimer:

I'm not a doctor or beauty chemist. The contents of this website, such as text, graphics, images and other material are intended for informational purposes only. This website does not contain medical advice. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition or treatment and before undertaking a new healthcare/skincare regimen, and never disregard professional medical advice or delay in seeking it because of something you have read on this website.

Use your own judgement before trying a new ingredient. We all have different body chemistry and a product considered as safe might still cause an allergic reaction on some people.

Quick Reference Guide for Beauty & Skincare Ingredients

Sonali Ankola – Dream With Intent